Regularly marketed as ultra-luxe and advertised as besting every major brand in vodka tastings, Pravda Vodka is a Polish spirit, distilled five times from rye and bottled at 80 proof.

It shares a lot of the characteristics of other rye vodkas, but Pravda is smoother than most and bears a stronger citrus flavor up front that I had expected. It does carry that moderate, rubbing alcohol aftertaste, though. It isn’t unpleasant, but it’s better in cocktails than as a sipper.

Amusingly, Pravda also comes with a big plastic jewel embedded in the bottle, one which wouldn’t be out of place in my daughter’s collection of Cinderella dress-up junk.